Here’s a phaser guitar effects schematic from an electronics magazine. I have build it some years ago but unfortunately I lost it so I cannot share the prototype. Anyway if I have time in the future, I might build 1.
Passion in Electronics
So I purchased a guitar overdrive effects kit from Alexan just for fun. If you are looking for a cheap DIY effects for your guitar, this one is for you.
Schematic
The design is not a true-bypass configuration, meaning the signal is still passing on the buffer circuit in bypass mode. What is bad about that? Well the buffer circuit cuts of some of the low frequencies of your signal and it also adds some noise to it.
At bypass mode, the low frequency cut off is just small and negligible. It cuts -3dB at around 30Hz.
Tone Control Response
Below is the simulation I made and compared it to Ibanez Tube Screamer FX pedal. Volume and gain set to maximum and the tone control set to 0%, 50% and 100%. As you can see, gain on the alexan overdrive is lower due to passive tone control design used. It also has more aggressive low frequency roll-off, which mean the alexan has thinner sound.
On the other hand, alexan has more gain on the overdrive circuit because it uses a 1M gain potentiometer rather than the 500k used in ibanez tube screamer. But do you need that high gain? I don’t think so, higher gain means higher noise.
If you are looking for a mic preamp with bass and treble control, you may consider this one. I designed it for my future mixer build. I am planning to build one someday when I am not too busy.
ABOUT THE CIRCUIT
The circuit is only on design stage, not yet done any prototype but it is working on my simulation. This is an improved version of the preamp on my audio mixer design I posted.
The rolloff on the 10k-20kHz range is caused by the capacitor C8. This is done to make sure the system will not allow any radio frequency to pass especially AM radio signals. If you want that roll-off to be more aggressive, you can increase it. Treble frequency is set by C3 and C4 while C2 is for setting the bass frequency. Increasing those capacitor values will decrease the frequency. For instance you want the bass to have more boost on the lower end frequency, just increase the value of C2.
Gain is set by R1, if you want more gain, increase R1 value. Potentiometer used are 100k, using 50k or lower will decrease the boost and cut range by around 3dB.
Simulation Results
All range: bass and treble at 0%, 50% and 100%
Bass control (0%-100% at 10% increment)
Treble control (0%-100% at 10% increment)
I have been trying to figure out how to connect the TVplus on my mobilio and I have hard time looking for the audio input of my head unit. I even tried opening it to see the PCB if it has some markings but failed. There is no clue inside and it is impossible to trace the connection since it uses 4-layers or more PCB.
The Concept
Since I gave up looking for the audio input, I have opt for a simple solution: use an FM transmitter for audio input instead. Simple but it works!
For the video input, since I am also using a reverse camera, I will be using a relay to switch the video between camera and TVplus. The diode 1n4001 is used to prevent the relay to turn on when you switch on the TV. In this configuration, the reverse camera will automatically connects to the head unit when you reverse.
Take note that I put “optional?” on the connection of the trigger. This is because the video input still works even without that connection. I will confirm this on my next attempt to install the tv receiver.
For the relay, I used relay with part number “LT-12G” bought from alexan. It is a SPDT 12V relay. For now, I only hook the 12V power supply from the cigarette lighter port.
IT WORKS!!!
FUTURE PLANS
I will be making another video for installing the wiring and mounting the tv receiver. Please subscribe to get updated.
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Here a simple arduino code for clock function without using RTC. If you only want to display the time and not the date, you do not need an RTC. The built-in crystal oscillator of the arduino is accurate enough for time displaying function.
Schematic Diagram
This is simple to build.
Code
[code lang=”c”]
// 1602 clock by tataylino.com
#include <LiquidCrystal.h>
LiquidCrystal lcd(7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2);
int x = 0;
int minute = 1;
int hour = 12;
int sec = 0;
int am = 0; //1 = morning
bool up = false;
bool down = false;
bool display_update = true;
bool amtopm = false;
int backled = 9;
int button = 13;
int val = 0;
int aState;
int aLastState;
void setup() {
pinMode(button, INPUT);
pinMode(A2, INPUT);
pinMode(A3, INPUT);
// pinMode(13, OUTPUT);
pinMode(backled, OUTPUT);
analogWrite(backled, 255);
// set up the LCD’s number of columns and rows:
lcd.begin(16, 2);
lcd.setCursor(0, 0);
lcd.print(“Orasan”);
//set timer1 interrupt at 1Hz
TCCR1A = 0;// set entire TCCR1A register to 0
TCCR1B = 0;// same for TCCR1B
TCNT1 = 0;//initialize counter value to 0
// set compare match register for 1hz increments
OCR1A = 15624;// = (16*10^6) / (1*1024) – 1 (must be <65536)
// turn on CTC mode
TCCR1B |= (1 << WGM12);
// Set CS10 and CS12 bits for 1024 prescaler
TCCR1B |= (1 << CS12) | (1 << CS10);
// enable timer compare interrupt
TIMSK1 |= (1 << OCIE1A);
sei();//allow interrupts
}
void display() {
if(hour >= 10) {
lcd.setCursor(0, 2);
lcd.print(hour);
} else {
lcd.setCursor(0, 2);
lcd.print(“0”);
lcd.setCursor(1, 2);
lcd.print(hour);
}
lcd.setCursor(2, 2);
lcd.print(“:”);
if(minute >= 10) {
lcd.setCursor(3, 2);
lcd.print(minute);
} else {
lcd.setCursor(3, 2);
lcd.print(“0”);
lcd.setCursor(4, 2);
lcd.print(minute);
}
lcd.setCursor(5, 2);
lcd.print(“:”);
if(sec >= 10){
lcd.setCursor(6, 2);
lcd.print(sec);
} else {
lcd.setCursor(6, 2);
lcd.print(“0”);
lcd.setCursor(7, 2);
lcd.print(sec);
}
if(am == 1){
lcd.setCursor(8, 2);
lcd.print(“am”);
} else {
lcd.setCursor(8, 2);
lcd.print(“pm”);
}
}
void counting_time(){
if(minute < 0 ) {
minute = 59;
hour–;
}
if(hour < 1){ hour = 12; } if (sec >= 60) {
sec = 0;
minute++;
}
if (minute >= 60) {
hour++;
minute = 0;
}
if (hour >=13) {
hour = 1;
}
if(hour == 12 && minute == 0) { // to make sure only 1 am to pm transition
if(amtopm == true) {
amtopm = false;
if(am == 1){
am = 0;
} else {
am = 1;
}
}
}else{
amtopm = true;
}
}
ISR(TIMER1_COMPA_vect){//timer1 interrupt 1Hz
sec++;
counting_time();
if(display_update) {
display();
}
}
void loop() {
val = digitalRead(button); // read button
if (val == HIGH) {
//lcd.setCursor(0, 0);
//lcd.print(“o”);
//minute++;
//delay(500);
}
aState = digitalRead(A3);
if (aState != aLastState){
// If the outputB state is different to the outputA state, that means the encoder is rotating clockwise
if (digitalRead(A2) != aState) {
display_update = false;
minute ++;
counting_time();
if(minute >= 10) {
lcd.setCursor(3, 2);
lcd.print(minute);
} else {
lcd.setCursor(3, 2);
lcd.print(“0”);
lcd.setCursor(4, 2);
lcd.print(minute);
}
display_update = true;
} else {
display_update = false;
minute –;
counting_time();
if(minute >= 10) {
lcd.setCursor(3, 2);
lcd.print(minute);
} else {
lcd.setCursor(3, 2);
lcd.print(“0”);
lcd.setCursor(4, 2);
lcd.print(minute);
}
display_update = true;
}
}
aLastState = aState; //
}
[/code]
Here’s a simple 2 band Equalizer circuit for your bass guitar. Can be powered by 9V battery.
About the circuit
The circuit it made up with 2 opamps from TL072 IC. You can use OPA2272 for better performance. The volume control is not included on the circuit but it is connected after the pickup. VR1 is a trimmer resistor meaning it is only for gain trimming which is adjusted once and forget it. you can replace it with a fixed resistor once you determine the best value.
Simulation Result
Frequency response graph of bass and treble at 0%-100% , 10% increment.
So here’s a little cheap amplifier project that you can build for your home or car audio which only cost you around 600 pesos.
Bill of Materials
Total is around 574 pesos only!
Note that power supply is not yet included. I am using it with my hybrid solar power which has an output of 12V which good enough for watching TV and some soft music. Power supply module will cost around 500 pesos, be sure to buy a 24V power supply instead of 12V to have the highest output power possible. At 12V, it can only deliver about half of its power capability. You can use a boost converter to increase the voltage from 12V to 26V to be able to get the maximum power output of this amplifier from a 12V power supply. Boost converter like this one on shopee.
I built it mainly for my home audio but this can also be used for car audio.
Youtube Video build:
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Here’s an improve tone control with 12dB boost on 80Hz for better super bass experience.
About the Circuit
The circuit is made up of 2 opamps TL072. This can be changed to other general purpose opamps like LM358. First stage opamp gain is set to 1, if you need more gain, you will need to decrease R2. If you want to use it for Mic, use 1k for R2.
Take note that there is no capacitor in series with the output, this is only for simulation, in reality you will need to add capacitor at the output to cancel out the DC offset on the output.
Want more Bass?
This circuit can already deliver +12dB boost at 80Hz but if that is not enough for you, you may want to decrease value of R3 and R4 for higher bass boost. Decreasing it to 3.3k will give you a bass boost of around 17dB at 80Hz! That would be too much and take note that you may need more power for that.
Simulation
Flat response ( bass and treble set to 50%)
there is roll off at both ends but it is only around -1dB which is fine. The roll off on the 20kHz is intended to reduce AM interference. This can be reduced by reducing C7 value. While the roll off at the lower end is needed to reduce subwoofer excessive movement. For music listening, the 20Hz to around 50Hz frequency is not important because almost no instrument is playing on that range of frequency. You can further decrease that roll off at 20Hz by decreasing value of C1.
100% Bass and Treble
0% Bass and 0% Treble Vs Set to both maximum
PCB Design
Please do take note that the simulation part numbering is not the same on the PCB part numbering. In example R1 on the simetrix simulation file is not the same R1 on the PCB file.
For PCB design, I used only single layer PCB so it will be easy to build for anyone. But in order to do this, I needed to add some 0 ohm resistors as jumpers. Just use wires for these 0 ohm resistors, these are R13, R14 and R20 on the schematic.
3D Render from Kicad Software
Downloads
You can download the kicad project file and simetrix simulation file here:
Here’s a simple Mic mixer that can be Powered with 5V. There is currently 3 channels on the circuit but you can add more if needed.
About the Circuit
The circuit is made up with BJT common emitter configuration. OPAMPS that can operate at low voltage are hard to find at a local electronic stores. The very common TL072 opamps can still operate at 5V at a very limited output voltage swing.
The circuit provides ~29dB gain, you can reduce that gain by increasing the value of the emitter resistors(R8,R9, and R11).
R3 and C1 is a filter for the power supply. C1 can be increased to reduce the noise if your power supply is noisy. R3 can also be increase up to around 100 ohms for better filtering.
You can connect this circuit to the USB audio interface circuit in this post so you can have this connected to you PC for recording.
Simulation
On the simulation below I used waveform generator with sinewave output at 100mV at frequencies 100Hz, 200Hz and 500Hz respectively. The volume setting is set at 30%, 10% and 10% respectively.